Passing through Nakuru - heart of the Rift Valley (Day 5)
We reach the summit of our travels, dropping in on Nakuru, then criss-crossing the equator all day, towards Mount Kenya…
<A respectful note for all of our UK readers smitten with snow, ice and floods: before we consider moaning about the relentless equatorial heat from the noonday sun, please be reassured we do remind ourselves of the suffering of those we left at home. Although, there are times when we would be grateful for a wallow in some icy snow. Honestly! >
DON’T SIGN OFF WITHOUT WATCHING VAL’S VID AT THE END!
So, it’s Friday; we’re only a hundred miles from our starting point Nairobi, but in very different terrain and already four very distinct, all enjoyable and testing golf courses into the marathon circuit.
We leave our overnight digs at the venerable old Rift Valley Sports Club in Nakuru, for the long drive back up to the ridge en route to the Aberdare Country Club.
Such a hoot that place was! Yet another old colonial club complete with cricket oval and tennis club in the middle of the bustling county town of Nakuru with its stunning lake of flamingos.
David and I just had to try the ‘Men Only’ bar for nightcaps, greeted warmly by the half dozen guys lining the bar, watching Jimmy Carter’s funeral on TV. Then the old chap next to me says “Ah, England! My brother is Archbishop in Coventry!” Before I know it he’s calling his bro on his mobile, and I find myself having a chat with the ‘Archbishop’! Bonkers.
Golf report: After an exhausting round of golf yesterday at the awesome Nakuru Golf Club (founded 1928) we’re taking a welcome break from golf today.
A note for those interested: Nakuru GC probably ranks up there with Sigona in terms of overall experience. Lush turf again, lung-busting climbs on this hilly, long championship-style course. Tiny greens, protected by mischievous bunkers - some superfast some slow, just to exasperate us newbies even more!
Once again the staff can’t do enough for you. Even though formality around rules of dress and general behaviour are a match for even the most old fashioned (snootiest) clubs at home, everything else is so relaxed. Best caddies we’ve had so far and so much fun to be with.
Anyone thinking of following in our footsteps on a Kenyan golf safari should consider this time of year: Xmas congestion over, dirt cheap fees and lovely climate lends itself to a golfers’ paradise - provided you have robust transport, a super-competent driver (like David) and a super-efficient coordinator (like Fi). And that you also are a fairly robust traveller not in need of 5-start accommodation at every stop!
As we climb out of the rift valley the hills turn even greener as we enter the lush fertile uplands. Orange groves alongside tea and coffee plantations; cavernous greenhouses growing tomatoes and other salad items destined for Waitrose at home: Kenya at its productive best.
At 7,300 feet we cross back into the Northern Hemisphere, pausing briefly at the ‘equator’ sign for the compulsory photo straddling the line. No washrooms so we didn’t bother experimenting to see which way the water swirled. Does it just not swirl?
Skirting along the edge of the rift valley we then continue towards Thompson Falls, snaking back and forth across the equator as we reach the summit of the Aberdare range - quite a view from up here!
Small (big) differences of note in this country, over the years we’ve travelled to Kenya:
It’s so tidy! In the main, the roadsides are free from litter - particularly plastic. Plastic bags and other single-use plastics are banned here now.
It’s so much more accessible! Compared to even 10 years ago, the roads, albeit with some busy, competitive, white-knuckle rides in places, are smooth and well-tended. Hence, long distances can now be covered more easily (and more comfortably for travellers!), opening up the economy for tourism and cross-border import/export business.
It’s so connected! Like so many countries that didn’t have landline networks, mobile connection and good broadband is everywhere. Indeed in places it might be better than the UK!
Just when all that is said and done, we hit a roadblock - first hiccup in an otherwise ‘smooth’ journey. The natives are revolting, so we hang a quick left across the plain to avoid the protest.
Our destination, still some miles anway across the savannah, requires us to find a detour, which turns out to be a bonus! We find zebra and rhino on our circuitous route. And behold..lightning and rain!…cooling the air but obscuring any chance of our first glimpse of Mount Kenya to the east of us.
Our longest day’s drive between destinations and four hours later we arrive at the gates of the Aberdare Country Club - a short drive from Nyeri, embedded on an idyllic hillside overlooking Mount Kenya (Kirinyaga) around 25m to the north east. I say ‘overlooking’ but it can be elusive. The Mount makes an appearance later on…
Gorgeous, glorious setting, founded by Englishman Dr Doolittle* and his wife, creating a haven for themselves and their baboons, warthogs, impala, dik dik, bush buck, squirrels, peacocks…all fully integrated with and unperturbed by a privileged few human guests passing through their neighbourhood.
They have a little golf course at the bottom of the hill - our project for tomorrow. Right now I’m being called onto the terrace for cocktails. Three-line whip by Fi, so I must bid you bye-bye for now dear readers!
*Fact-checking the Doolittle connection
Really enjoying your travel log... delighted you are having such a wonderful time. The Kenyan tourist board should be paying you ! Love to you both x
Fabulous!